Wednesday, January 21, 2015

#4 Ocean Beach, San Francisco

Ocean Beach is my go-to beach in the Bay Area.  The water is great for wading, the sand is soft, and the scenery is beautiful.  Every beach in Nor Cal gets cold and foggy, but personally, I've had great luck with Ocean Beach weather. I've gone on three spontaneous beach trips to OB this past year, and 2 of the 3 days had perfectly clear skies! 
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
If you're unfamiliar with beaches in California, they are notoriously cold.  Air temperature on the beach is usually around 60°F year round, plus or minus 10°.  Arctic ice melt makes the water coldest and the air foggiest in the summers, so be sure to bring warm clothing if you're sensitive to the cold. If you're bold and want to wade in spite of the chill, Ocean Beach is just the place!  The waves aren't usually too strong on the main stretch of beach.  Check out these mild waves.  They're even kid friendly!



There's almost always something fun happening at Ocean Beach.  The wind is perfect for kite flying and the waves are great for boogie boarding.  If you're feeling more adventurous, apparently you can even try parasailing!  I don't see parasailing often here, so I snapped some great pictures when I had the chance.  



The third day I came out here, there was a surfing convention of sorts.  There were dozens of surfers hitting the waves.  Although I'm not a surfer myself, it seems as though Ocean Beach is a surfing hotspot as well, so bust out your board if you have one!  Check out these surfers in action.

\


This beach sure does have some neat scenery.  Off to the distance, there are some lovely coastal rocks that make for a nice site.  While they are too far off the coast to be able to reach them, they sure do look nice!


If you're feeling chilly, walking through the sand dunes is a great way to warm up.  The sand is usually really hot, so be sure to carry a pair of flip-flops in case you have sensitive feet like me, and can't take the heat!


It's always nice to see trees near the beach!  These trees line the cliffs that mark the end of the beach.


If you make it all the way to the end of the beach sheltered by these cliffs, you can find some neat little caves to hang out in.  They're more like crevices in the rock that are large enough for a small group of people to fit into, so you don't have to worry about getting lost in them.  The rock walls do have quite a bit of graffiti on them because many people do visit the area. These rocky caves would make a nice spot to bust out a few drinks or bring your kids to play-- hopefully not both at the same time, though, unless said drinks are boxes of apple juice!  You do have to hike out quite a bit to reach the caves, so pack lightly.



What are you waiting for?  Come chill with my buddy the seagull. Thanks for reading!

He hopes to see you soon!





Monday, January 5, 2015

India Trip Wrap Up: Final Days in Bombay

Towards the end of our trip, my poor brother woke up at 3AM with the worst case of food poisoning I've seen-- even worse than the time I got E. coli from German airplane food during the outbreak in 2011.  Over the course of the next two days, a combination of prescribed meds, liquids and rest in the hotel room lead to my brother's full recovery.  So we ended up flying back to the US smoothly, thank goodness. The moral of the story is: Don't try eating oysters or calamari for the first time in India, even in a 5 star restaurant on New Years.  And listen to your overly cautious, premed sister.  If one not-absolutely-terrible thing came from this experience, it was interesting to see myself spring into action and take the graveyard shift caring from my brother from 4AM to 9AM and then making it through the day without getting phased by fatigue.  I tend not to be able to stay up very late to cram for exams (my college friends know me for getting sleepily easily, relative to other people who pull all-nighters like it's nobody's business), but its good to know that when health is involved, I can rise the occasion.  Of course, I still would have traded this realization for my brother being 100% healthy during our trip.  I'm just glad he's totally fine now!

While my brother and dad stayed at the hotel, my mom and I went to visit family.  Shopping at local stores with my wonderful family in Bombay was a much better experience than the one described in "My Breaking Point".  At local stores, you're in control rather than the vendors.  Prices are fair, and vendors are much less pushy/less likely to cheat you.  I now have some idea of how to effectively drive down prices with actions and body language, even if I can't speak Hindi.  For example: walking away when they won't bargain down to your price works wonders to get vendors to compromise.  Having multiple stores selling similar goods in close proximity to each other means you have more options, so unlike those tourist malls in the north, shop keepers don't have a monopoly.  My great aunt sure knows how to bargain calmly, while still smiling.  As inexperienced bargainers, my mom and I tended to bargain up north by visibly getting angry at vendors-- but even the most experienced bargainers might have similar reactions, given how rude/ridiculous some of those vendors were.

After shopping, I went with my family in Bombay to see the apartment where my mom's deceased father and his younger brothers lived during their earlier years.  Seeing my grandpa's name on the door really made me miss him. The entire building is going to demolished and rebuilt soon, so I'm thankful to have been able to see the apartment before it's gone.  This was also the same apartment that my mom spent the first few years of her life!   I was pleasantly shocked when the downstairs neighbors recognized my mom by name instantly, without needing my great aunt explain who she was.  The neighbors hadn't seen my mom since she was five!!  I'm amazed that they could still recognize my mom so easily, even now that she's old enough to have adult children of her own.  This goes to show how beautifully close people can get with their neighbors in India!
N.K. Shenai, that's my grandpa's name!
My great uncle, mom and great aunt together in the apartment.  They helped raise my mom when she was a small child!
My recently married aunt and uncle in Bombay make an adorable couple.   They're constantly smiling, happy and just the right amount of cuddly.  They give me hope, and honestly I want to end up in a marriage where my future husband and I are as happy as they appear to be!   Whether I choose to have a "love-marriage" (which is what Indians call a non-arranged marriage) or an arranged marriage (yes, I could see myself having an arranged marriage if dating doesn't work out), I know both types of marriage can be full of love. And in addition, whether I marry an Indian or not, everything will be okay-- plenty of other people in my family have married non-Indians and turned out just fine.  I know I have family that will love me as long as I stay true to myself.

Who I marry is up in the air at this point, but I know with certainty that I want to incorporate more of my culture into my future by choice, not because I feel obligated to.  Like my mom has been telling me for the past few years when I've struggled to find cultural balances in my life: "You can't please everyone, just be yourself."  At first I didn't fully believe her-- I thought there would be some magical way to do what everyone wanted so we could all end up happy.  But I now understand that she's right.  Being who I am should be enough for people to love me, and if it isn't, then I don't need that negativity in my life anyway.  Even if we disagree sometimes, my mom has always known best!

I was honestly scared to come to India, thinking that my family wouldn't accept me due to my lack of culture.  But now I know I am loved across India, and that I want to come back to the south at my next available chance.  Although I don't plan to come back to the north any time soon, I'll probably bring my future children to the north to so they can see the historic sites when they're old enough to appreciate them.

Thanks for sticking with me through this incredible journey.  Even though "Cultural Reflections from an ABCD's First Visit to India as an Adult" has come to a close, I hope this segment of my blog can be an eye opener for people who have limited experience with India, a source of guidance for other ABCDs like me who are trying to find their place in the world, and a fresh perspective for people very familiar with India.  It's been a privilege and a blessing to have viewers all over the world, in countries I wouldn't even expect!  Knowing I've had supporters across the globe throughout all of this has been incredible.
Kittens we saw while shopping in Bombay
And for those of you who know me, it just wouldn't be right if I ended this series of blog posts without posting some pictures of Indian kittens.  So here you go!
Kitten by my Bombay family's apartment complex
Your support means the world.  Continue to share the blog if you like, and keep the conversation about India going.  I hope this blog has been an inspiration to you somehow, even if only in a small way.

Check back for more travel advice about California, and posts about my future travels abroad!

Have a wonderful 2015, everyone!

Love,
Neena


Sunday, January 4, 2015

Pivotal Moments in Manipal

Just as a heads up, this is going to be a long post.  If you only have time to read one of the two sections, I would jump straight to Part II: Wisdom Across the Ages.  I have a feeling this post will be worth your time if you choose to stick it out :) 

Part I: My Experiences with Family and Culture

One of the most striking aspects of the culture here is that traditionally, families are extremely close.  My parents have tried describing the closeness to me back in the US, but I could never fully get a grasp of it until I visited my own family in Manipal.  To put things into perspective, my uncles, their spouses, their children, and the grandparent all live happily in the same house!  Manipal is small relative to the other cities we visited, so our immediate family members live within a 15-minute radius from each other, making large family gatherings more feasible.  Like in parts of the US, people become close with their neighbors here (although back in California I hardly know my neighbors at all).  My younger cousin tells me that children tend to hang out more with their families than they do with their classmates, which is very different from the cultural norm in the US.  Now I understand why I feel so driven to come home to California for medical school/work while many of my friends are ready for full-blown independence— being close with family is part of my heritage!

Family gatherings were a blast!  There were roughly 12 of us for each meal, and the food was incredible.  There were so many home-cooked dishes, many of which used locally grown produce, and each item was delicious.  I broke my “no uncooked food” rule to try local fruits, which were so unique.  I officially love sitaphal (custard apple) and sour grapefruit kernels with rock sugar.  Variations of these fruits grow in my family’s backyard, in addition to numerous other fruit trees, veggies and flowers.  

We started off our first family gathering with a “talent show” of sorts.  Before we arrived, my parents, brother and I were honestly not looking forward to this part due to our lack of performance talent, but we ended up having a blast!  My aunt and uncle put on a skit with beautiful dancing to welcome us to Manipal, and my great aunt did an improve dance which was a lot of fun for everyone!  My parents, brother and I selected a few riddles we knew for entertainment, which were thankfully a hit.  We would never think to hold such an event in the US, but I’m glad we did, because the “show” was great fun for everyone involved.   We then played games where my parents, brother and I had to guess the names and ages of the elders and uncles.  Then the elders had to guess my major and my brother’s hobbies through a multiple choice charades test.  There was no pressure if we forgot anyone’s names, and we laughed a LOT.

My great aunt dancing!
We also went out on a few family outings, my favorite of which were the boating trip I described in my last post, and a beach + temple trip.  Over a dozen of us piled into some cars and hit Malpe beach.  We snacked in the sand, played in the waters and built a shell-studded sand castle.  Unfortunately, an uncle of mine lost his phone in the ocean, but aside from that the trip was great!
A few of us on the Swarna river
Some of my family members and some random people at sunset.  I just liked the way the picture looked!
On the way home from the beach, we stopped at a temple in Udupi to watch the nightly winter ceremony.  The idol of Krishna was placed in a huge chariot, which people pulled in a circle around the temple property.  A beautiful decorated elephant led the proceedings, and they lit fireworks as the chariot went around.  The temple was so crowded that night, and for good reason.  It was quite a sight.
An elephant, which wasn't actually behind bars.  These iron gates didn't fully close, so the elephant was free to roam around.  You could choose to put money in its trunk, then it would touch your head with its trunk to bless you :)
The chariot being pulled by a crowd of people
Manipal was once a smaller town, but being home to a university has facilitated the city’s growth from when we last visited. My ancestor Dr. T.M.A Pai is responsible for Manipal’s massive growth because he founded the local medical and engineering schools, so we visited the museum built to commemorate his life and accomplishments.  The museum displays our family trees, which helped me get a sense of my family’s origins and how far we’ve come. 

Our family tree!
“It is no use feeling sorry for conditions in our country: It only means we must improve these conditions” –Dr. T.M.A Pai

This quote was posted on the wall of the museum.  It’s really great to see that my ancestors had similar principles that I still carry to this day through my work with Global Brigades, and through posts like “My Breaking Point!”

After leaving the museum, we visited the house in which my maternal grandma was born and raised, although now it has been converted into a modern restaurant.  The manager allowed us to take a tour of the restaurant as my great-aunt told us stories about her childhood with respect to different parts of the building.  Getting to see where the elders of my family were brought into this world was very powerful.  Without them, I wouldn't be here today!


Part II: Wisdom Across the Ages

As our trip in Manipal came to a close, my aunts warmly instructed me to share my secret to success with my younger cousins (an 8th grader and a 10th grader).   I am the oldest by far out of my generation of cousins—most of which are babies or young children, so they look up to me as a role model.  Now you have to understand, both of these two cousins are extremely bright.  The older cousin is an outstanding mathematician/musician and the younger cousin is an avid reader/writer.  So naturally, the first thing I told each of them when I pulled them aside was that I know in my heart that they each have bright futures ahead of them.   Afterwards, I let them know that in life, we all will undoubtedly make mistakes, but the key is to grow from each of them.  I personally have faltered quite a few times in my life, but the reason I am who I am today is because I’ve grown and learned from each mistake I’ve made.  And I also let them know that even if I’m not in India, I’m always quick call or email away if they ever need advice or fresh perspective from an outside source.  My cousins are family, so I promise to have their backs if they ever need me, and to keep their concerns private if that is what they so desire. 

In addition to my individual advice, my aunts thought it would be great if I shared my secrets to success with the entire family at our next dinner gathering, and so I did.  We all sat in a circle, and I shared similar advice to the entire group.  My uncles busted out the cameras and video taped my responses to share with other cousins who couldn’t be there.  It was quite nerve wracking and strange at first, but I grew comfortable in front of the large audience. 

30 minutes before we left for the airport to travel to Manipal, the parents of my cousins questioned me more about the key to my success in front of the large group.  As I spoke, elaborating on my previous advice, my uncle kept questioning fervently: but how do you make sure you end up successful?  And my reply was that if you never really can guarantee success—for all we know our lives could change drastically tomorrow because of uncontrollable circumstances, but if your heart is in the right place, everything will work out in the end.  We’ll all do things that stray from the path of success or our family values, but if we know the things we did were for the right reasons, it will be okay.  And that's just a natural part of life.  If we learn from our mistakes, we’ll keep growing into better people.

That answer still didn’t seem to fully satisfy them, but only because they were being good, but worried parents who want best for their children.  In a room full of 15 people, 10 minutes before we were supposed to leave, the parents of my cousins said passionately, “We just want our kids to be perfect like you.”  And that’s when the conversation got to me.  I’m not perfect, and have many faults. I don’t know much about my religion, my language, my home country.  I recently decided to take a gap year (which is frowned upon in Indian families when you could just go straight to med school), my SAT scores and MCAT scores weren’t perfect, etc.  I came to India very afraid that people wouldn’t accept me because of all these flaws.  And in America, I tend to distance myself from other Indian communities because I feel so judged.  (To put things into perspective, one time, an elderly Indian woman who I had just met criticized my acne in front of a huge group of people at a Konkani dinner party-- which wasn't even that crazy of an occurrence at an Indian party).  And to make everything harder, I'm pioneering the next generation of cousins-- setting the bar and having to decide how to strike cultural balances between my American lifestyle and Indian heritage without having anyone else in my age group to look up to.  I’m not perfect, and as I explained this, I started to tear up and cry. 

That’s when all the elders started chiming in with dewy eyes and smiles:
  
“Nobody’s perfect, we’re all human and have made mistakes!” 
“There’s a huge difference between community and family.  Indian communities judge hard, but family will love you no matter what"
"We know how you feel, we've been there and we all can relate in our own ways!"
"Being the first of the generation is hard. Two of us are also the oldest of our generation, and have felt the pressure of leading the youngsters too"
“We love you and we’re so proud of you!”
“Come back to India!”

And then we had to say our goodbyes and rush off to the airport.

In Manipal, I don’t feel like I’m being judged. In my experience, Indian communities in the states focus on my generation’s flaws.  But here, my family focuses on achievements. Now, I know in my heart that I’ll always fit in here as long as I stay true to myself, even if I deviate from what I picture the ideal Indian woman to be.  This experience was probably my most transformative moment of the trip, even more so than the one described in "My Breaking Point."  For moments like these, I’ll always be grateful.  


Thanks for sticking through this long post!  Stay tuned for my final post about my experiences in India.  It's been a great journey :)

Thursday, January 1, 2015

Cultural and Societal Reflections from my First Day in Bombay

Bombay is a lot like New York City.  It's the financial capital of India, home to big business, big money and Bollywood.  There are plenty of skyscrapers, luxury car dealerships, country clubs, etc. But with all this extreme wealth comes extreme poverty, just like in NYC.
The 27 story, billion dollar Ambani building, which is the exorbitant family home I referenced in "My Breaking Point."  For those following my blog that have read that post, you should know that there is hope!  Along the streets even in the posh parts of Bombay, I saw buildings dedicated to the "Care of Street Children," as was written on the buildings.  In spite of that positive note, my aunt from Bombay tells me there are makeshift huts pitched at the base of the Ambani building, which are home to the poor.  We couldn't see them, or any real sign of poverty as we drove by.
During our first day in Bombay, we've mostly been immersed in the wealth of the city.  We're staying at one of the top hotels at Nariman Point, the wealthy business district of the city.  And never in my life have I experienced such luxury.  We would never stay in a hotel of equivalent luxury in the US-- it would be too expensive and we honestly wouldn't fit in.  But here, me wearing an old $20 maxi dress, sneakers and no makeup still constitutes the mark of a wealthy tourist (with respect to currency), and I could walk into any luxury hotel with no questions asked.  If I tried walking into the Plaza in NYC while wearing the same outfit, I would definitely get dirty looks and they might ask me to leave.  Converting the US dollar to Indian rupees gives you x10 the spending power that you would have in the US.  So the pricing of our fancy rooms at this Indian hotel in US dollars is more like price of an average, but pleasant hotel in the states.
Luxury hotel #1
Luxury hotel #2
Northern India is known for its historic sites, which are hundreds of years old.  Bombay is much newer, having more influence from the British than the ancient Mughal emperors.  So one of the perks is that visiting the tourist attractions tends to be free here (visiting palaces and such up north costs a few hundred rupees a person for foreigners)!  However, there are fewer tourist sites and the ones you can find are much less elaborate than those of the north. Visiting the India Gate was nice, but even more interestingly for me, the surrounding area doesn't even look like India-- It looks like Paris!  (I would know, because I used to live there and my brother was born there)  The European atmosphere makes sense, because the India gate was designed by the British and the surrounding area had a lot of British influence.  Check out these buildings!


My favorite part of our stay in Bombay so far was visiting the Hanging Gardens, which is the equivalent of Central Park in NYC.  There are beautiful flowers of many varieties, tropical trees, green grass, and tasteful artistic installments.  We spotted colorful, decorated birds in the shrubbery and were surrounded by butterflies drinking nectar from the blooms.  We saw wild blue, green, brown, orange and white butterflies everywhere.  Check out these photos!
Yes, I took this picture of a wild, living, moving butterfly!
This cute, fat and happy stray dog lounging in the garden!
Locals, albeit more affluent ones, come here with their families, friends and significant others.  That's right, people date here!  And for America, of course this sounds like no big deal. But in India, this is HUGE.  Get this: At the university in Manipal, public displays of affection are prohibited.  That's right, PDA is against the rules.  At this park, couples were holding hands, putting there arms around each other, leaning against each other, and had their faces so close together they were practically kissing! (But no kissing took place)  I was actually surprised when my dad, who is hesitant to me dating to some degree, bluntly said: "People date here, thank God!"

Part of my dad's theory for why north India is so backwards in terms of the way men treat women is largely attributed to sexual repression.  The relative openness of dating culture in Bombay might be part of the reason I can walk down the street in a tighter-fitting maxi dress that shows a good amount of skin by Indian standards, and not have men ogling at me.  In the North, even while I wore my dad's oversized jacket and jeans and layers and scarves, mens eyes were still glued to me and other covered women as if we were pieces of meat.  I was even groped by a stranger while I was in line at a train station, with my dad standing next to me!  In Bombay, men keep a respectful distance and don't gape at women who walk by while wearing skin tight clothing and shorts. And American clothes are very common here, even amongst locals.  The only thing that outright infuriated me was when a vendor persistently tried to sell me a copy of the Kama Sutra while we took a stroll around the same park.  If you don't know what the Kama Sutra is, you can look it up on Wikipedia or something.  Once I angrily stormed off, we weren't bothered by anyone else.  He was the only vendor we encountered, and he seemed to be keeping his sales on the down-low because selling items may have been banned in the garden.
Walking about the garden, undisturbed, while wearing modern American clothing and chilling with a giraffe:)
Also worth noting, Bombay previously had a female doctor as mayor.  That's right, a highly educated woman led the city! Perhaps this contributed to Bombay's liberalness, or was a manifestation of it. Either way, Bombay is progressive, and I love that.

I look forward to visiting my family here tonight, and in the coming few days!

We attempted to visit temples, but the lines just to get in extended down the streets for a solid block or two, packed with people wanting to pray for the new year.  May you all have a wonderful year ahead :) Happy New Years, and thanks for reading!

PS: Stay tuned for another post or two recapping my time Manipal.  I have most of it written out, but I'm trying to tell an intricate story tastefully and succinctly, which requires a fair amount of planning and revision. Between the family meals, outings and explorations, I didn't have enough to write a post of this magnitude during my stay in Manipal. It's on its way, and I hope you love it half as much as I love Manipal!